March 5, 2013
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White Night Ride to Northeast Carry
It snowed last night in Northeast Carry
The first day of autumn... September 25, 1947… a mere 65 years ago
And there he was... just coming awake in his '36 Special Series Buick 40
Zipped up and cozy in his army surplus down-sleeper stretched out on the horizontal back
Of the wooden interior he had sawed and angle-ironed - his mattress resting on the jump-seats
Of the pre-war limousine bought last year for six hundred mostly-borrowed dollars
That afternoon it started snowing... small flakes mixed with hail and plentiful with both
Coating the narrow unpaved road within the hour with a white-washed veneer
Snow-wrapped and canopied giant spruce in over-arching lapstreaks
Feathery plumes swaying slightly in the soundlessness of absent birdsong
Views of the lake glistening occasionally through the logged-out spacings
Yesterday he managed to drive the big car from Rockwood some twenty angry miles
Through a wilderness of towering forests to the end of this muddy rutted road
And it was almost midnight when he reached the tiny village of Northeast Carry, Maine
At the upper end of Moosehead Lake… It really did seem like the edge of the world to him
And as he climbed out of his bag this morning… there were the cabins up ahead
Donny Hawkins was an old retired logger who leased lake-front from Georgia-Pacific
He built these roughed-out camps for loggers and occasional hunters and fishermen
The kid at the pump when he gassed up in Greenville and helped him put on his chains
Said he rented cheap… so here he was knocking on Donny’s door for a place to stay
Five bucks a night and breakfast and all the coffee he could drink
Donny told him there was no one else here… Season’s done for a while he said
It was eight in the morning but he’d been up since four o’clock fishing
He brought him a pot of coffee and bacon and eggs then retired to his “A” frame for a nap
He finished eating and then went out to park his car behind the camp and get his gear
Folding easel… Acrylics and brushes… Arches watercolor block
He made some sketches of the cabins and the mountain views across the lake
The gas was cut off so after a can of Dinty Moore’s cooked on his little Coleman stove
He decided to walk into the woods because he could see a cleared area up ahead
To his astonishment there were five or six huge diesel rigs lined up next to these long flatbeds
With two big skidders alongside… snow melting off them because it had warmed up some
Donny told him later that come February when the lake freezes deep enough
The truckers and jacks will show up and load the long fifty-foot double flatbeds
With thousands of huge stripped spruce logs cut last year and stacked on some thirty cleared acres
And hook up those big Peterbilts and Kenilworths and set their compasses
And drive some forty miles down the middle of the lake to Greenville and the pulp mills
Once he said just before the war… one of those rigs broke through the ice
But the trucker radioed his position and got out before she went to the bottom
The State Guides sent their ski plane and picked him up before he froze
Donny told him one of those rigs full-loaded weighs about seventy tons
But as long as the temperature stays below zero… four feet of ice easily support it
This time of year he said it’s nice and quiet and will be for another few months
But come early February the boys will come up and load the flatbeds with last year’s timber
And hook them up to the big rigs and set their compasses and drive over to the lake
And haul-ass down the ice to Greenville… usually at night when it’s colder
And come back next morning for another load
He told Donnie maybe he could come back next year
When one of those rigs would haul-ass down the ice to Greenville
Maybe he could follow behind it in his big Buick for the thrill
Donnie got a laugh out of that but told him those ice truckers are a tight bunch
And wouldn’t take kindly to a flatlander joining them for a lark
News Item: Barrie Fortier 65, the last of the ice truckers passed away unexpectedly in Guilford Maine in
January 2009… And there is no more winter ice-truck log-hauling on Moosehead Lake… Plum Tree Inc,
a huge land conglomerate is planning to build two large resorts on the more than 80 thousand acres it owns
along the lake…
Comments (2)
oh how sad that the last of the ice truckers passed away. I am happy that Donny Hawkins was able to give you shelter from the snow and feed you. What a lovely memory. Do you have the painting you did that day? You should post it here.
Thank you for your kind comment about my health. I am slowly improving...I think.
Loved the word-pictures.
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